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The More Things Change, the More they Stay The Same

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Our friend Martha gave me an old book by the  essayist and travel writer  Pico Iyer, which included a chapter about his travels in Bhutan. B orn to Indian parents in England, he often tells  stories of his travels to far-flung places around the globe . Though this book,  Falling Off the Map: Some Lonely Places of the World , was written over 30 years ago, I was fascinated that many of his experiences and observations of Bhutan in 1989 were not very different from much of what we went through more than three decades later. I learned some interesting things that added to what  I already knew and had observed about Bhutan: He comments that, "in Bhutan, trips are decidedly more a matter of traveling than arriving.” Still so true! That was  one of the most challenging aspects of living there. Every time I got into a vehicle I knew that the journey could take any form. If nothing else, I would steel myself for likely motion sickness - but also felt vindicated whe...

Doing Laundry

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There are many serious issues to reflect on in this blog. But it is also fun and so interesting to ruminate on the everyday experiences, including what it was like living on campus, and how we kept our physical environment clean and healthy.  We did a good job of figuring out how to feed ourselves, which was no small task, but it turned out our biggest challenge was being able to clean our clothes.   I will never again take my washing machine for granted.  We could hire someone to do our wash for us, as the two other short-term Fulbrighters did. But we don’t mind doing our own laundry, and quite honestly, like having control over what happens to our clothes. Being at the laundry was also a great opportunity to have unplanned meetings with students – I have had some of my best conversations with students, and learned so many things, hanging out by the washing machines. It also gives us a window onto their living conditions.    The campus "laundry facility" serves...

Delving Into Bhutan’s Rule of Law*

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More thoughts from Jay: A courtroom in Wangdue-Phodrang district court. The masks, based in a mythology, roughly represent the defense side in white, the evil dark side prosecution, and the judge in the middle. Being back in Seattle has given us a little bit of time and space to think about JSW and our experiences in Bhutan. For much of the time we were there, my perspective on Bhutan’s legal system was based on my experience at JSW, where many faculty do not actually have law degrees, and of those, very few have any experience practicing law. It was not easy to learn what the real-life practice of law was like for attorneys in court. One of the few ways students get practical exposure is through clinics taught by faculty with legal experience, including our colleague Prof. Dema Lham, who has taught the popular Human Dignity Clinic for several years. Through Dema, I was able to build a relationship with the Bhutan National Law Institute (BNLI), the government agency whose mission is ju...

Khuru

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Every year in the fall, there is a day of celebration called the Blessed Rainy Day, marking the end of the rainy season. This year it was Spetmeber 23, and the students planned to have a khuru tournament to celebrate. Khuru is a traditional Bhutanese game, like lawn darts, with small targets spaced 20  meters  or more (60+ feet) apart. It is a tamer version of the traditional archery that is very common. (The movie  “Travelers and Magicians”  opens up with a great scene of traditional Bhutanese archery, including the crazy taunting that happens in front of the target, which unfortunately leads to many injuries, or worse).    Come Blessed Rainy Day, however, the students had to cancel their plans because it was… too rainy! So they pushed it back a few weeks, until they were sure it would be a dry day.   One Sunday in mid-October, we went out for a walk only to find khuru had taken over much of the parking lot next to the library. This area has been de...

The "Australian Exodus"

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“Everyone is going to Australia.” I hear this from so many people, so often. Colleagues at school, people in town, taxi drivers, officials, everyone knows a lot of people who have left the country. Even we know people who have left the country, or have tried to leave, or are waiting to leave, or are planning to leave.  The law school is not immune to this exodus. In the year after the campus moved to its permanent location in Pangbisa, the staff lost 20 people - out of a total staff of 60. And while much of that can be attributed to the fact that  a lot of people didn’t want to commute to Pangbisa from Thimphu, or move to Paro, the astonishing stat was that 14 out of those 20 people left for Australia.   Australia has long been where many Bhutanese have gone for school or to work. Some people also have gone to Canada and the UK, and to a lesser degree, the US. But Australia now has a large Bhutanese community, many there permanently, which draws more people to settle. I r...